Travel

Case Study: Greece, Crete

Try as hard as I could not to whimper my extremely enthusiastic masseur heard my muffled groan and asked if I was alright.

"Oh yes," I replied summoning up all my masculine pride, determined not to be, well, a wimp. "Please just relax," this modern day Greek god soothingly urged me, pushing my raised foot back down for the third time.

After more thorough working of muscles I didn't know I had in places I cannot remember ever being prodded - and a few more silent whimpers - I was indeed totally relaxed and extremely oily.

As all I had to do for the rest of the day was lie in the sun gazing out over the glittering Cretan Sea continuing to relax without the help of those magic hands wasn't exactly difficult.

This robust massage was the culmination of an afternoon of treatments at the Royal Mare Thalasso in Crete, a taster of the wide range of thalassotherapy offered by this pristine spa, in 2006 named the World's Leading Thalasso & Spa Resort adding this rather grand title to a range of feathers in a well-plumed cap.

My partner and I were trying out just some of the treatments, some luxurious, some fun and some, like my massage, certainly invigorating, at the immaculate complex that forms part of Aldemar's Royal Mare Village, just outside Hersonissos in Crete.

I emphasise just outside as this is not the most beautiful of Crete's coastal towns, rather a lively resort that has grown up and engulfed a port with rows of restaurants along the seafront and plenty of late night bars and clubs for the more, should we say, alcohol-induced relaxation popular with some holidaymakers.

Admittedly a trip into Hersonissos and to the eye-opening resort of Malia a few kilometers down the coast make for an entertaining evening out and a stunning contrast with the serenity, comfort and charming service from the Royal Mare staff.

The only problem with entering a holiday village like this is you are tempted to stay firmly within its extensive boundaries trying a range of restaurants, wine bars and more relaxed eateries, its special themed nights and even its own nightclub. Its own sandy beach has excellent swimming, crystal waters, a perfect view and – those relaxing hands are only a saunter away!

But we had hired a car and tore ourselves away to explore Crete, quickly discovering that while the driving is not quite what you would expect at home it is easy to adapt to local customs and dash around the island at a surprisingly speedy pace.

And so we visited not only the fascinating Minoan remains at Knossos outside Heraklion, just about 20 minutes drive from the Royal Mare, but also the sites that have not been restored at all and are if anything more interesting. One is incongruously just outside Malia while the most beautiful is on the other side of the island at Festos and Agia Triada.

Festos and the nearby Greek ruins at Gortyna make for a great day out after a breakfast that will easily keep you going until lunch. Head for the beach at Matala and a spot of sun worshiping at what used to be the hippie hideaway on the south coast.  Matala has the cunning knack of old shack restaurants along the beach but we had an excellent and most un-shack-like lunch.

By early evening you can be back at the hotel for a gourmet meal at the Candia restaurant with the sun sinking at the end of another glorious day. The Candia is set in a wooden pavilion floating over an immaculate pool, now, I hope temporarily, enhanced by my stray fork.

Another day we departed for a day in western Crete arriving after a two-hour drive at the pretty historic town of Chania with its mixture of Venetian and Ottoman architecture and imposing fortresses. But it is the narrow alleys with their shops in old Ottoman palaces and the odd glimpse of the glittering old harbour down a side-street that enchants.

Our dinner stop was at the minute and equally attractive Venetian harbour at Rethymnon. Okay, it is a very touristy thing to do but the fish and seafood restaurant perched on the very edge of the harbour wall was excellent and the setting just after nightfall explains why this does lure the visitors.

Our trip to Crete was only a week but we also found time to visit another charming and popular resort of Agios Nikolaos with its apparently bottomless inner harbour and charming city beach. Every holiday should include a boat trip and we took ours to the old Venetian island fortress, more recently Europe's last leper colony, at Spinalonga.
No doubt some of the guests at the Royal Mare ventured no further than the hotel beach, a spot of shopping at the hotel's shops and a day on the sun loungers interrupted by a dip in the perfectly clear sea, and visits to the spa.

But being so close to the island's capital Heraklion, just over 20 kilometres, you can easily get a taste of real Crete and the island's unique contribution to world history in a single day trip.

Even our single day when the weather was slightly less than perfect proved a joy. We set off for the Lassithi plateau along a tortuously windy road until breaking through the cloud, we dropped down into this vast hidden market garden high up in the mountains and discovered a fabulous Greek and French run restaurant.

Heraklion has a bustling and lively city centre with enough sights to keep you occupied for an afternoon stroll, taking in its Venetian fortress, Ottoman-influenced architecture and shaded squares where old men pass the day sipping strong Greek coffee.
After a light lunch - after breakfast at the Royal Mare even that might be a struggle - delve into Minoan culture at the city's renowned antiquities museum, picking out fabulous finds from the ruined palaces that dominated the Mediterranean 3,500 years ago. The carving is delicate, the murals from the famous palaces has a lightness and simplicity that delights while the pottery designs are positively jazzy.

The Museum is just a about a clothes-rail length from some excellent designer shops at supermarket prices.

Our week combined worshipping the sun on the island so closely associated with those Greek gods, bathing in those sparkling waters and then getting to know as much of the island as we could.

What was that the masseur said about relaxing?

Cosmos Holidays features the 'elite' five star Aldemar Royal Mare Village overlooking the beach close to Hersonissos.

Featuring its own Thalassotherapy Spa Centre, the hotel offers a range of spa and massage treatments, sauna, jacuzzi as well as a choice of water sports from the beach. Royal Mare Thalasso won the World Travel Award for 2006 as the Worlds Leading Resort Thalasso.  

A seven night stay during May costs from £669 per person including return flights with Monarch Plus, seven nights bed and breakfast accommodation and private taxi transfers.

To make a reservation ring Cosmos Holidays on 0870 443 1823 or visit www.cosmosholidays.co.uk

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